View the above 5plex neighborhood in dwf format.

Why EconOdome? and, How?
The majority of dome kits are assembled either by using steel hubs at the connection points (nodes)
or by prefabbing the individual triangles (with exterior wood sheathing attached) and bolting the triangles together.
Both of these methods have drawbacks.

If you use a steel hub at each node, then you will have voids in the vicinity of every triangle tip.
This can be a problem area for attaching both the exterior covering materials and the interior sheetrock.
The void at the tips of the triangles would make it difficult to waterproof
as the tips of the triangles under the waterproofing cannot be attached securely.
For this reason most domes made this way are shingled.
And this is difficult to do in a reliable manner.

If you bolt the triangles together, you will be working with
large triangles that are difficult to handle and align properly.
Also, with a bolt together triangle system, all the tensional forces must translate via the bolts.
Such a dome would structurally be neither a braced frame nor a pure shell.
This is because such a dome is not connected at the nodes and
adjacent panels do not connect to the same framing member (strut).
This type of dome would have expansion-contraction where the panels join.
The sheetrock on the interior would develop cracks where the panels join.
And, the exterior of this type of dome is normally shingled to deal with the expansion-contraction that occurs
at the seams where the separate pre-fabbed triangles are joined.
And shingling a building is difficult and often unreliable with many building types.

Other dome types cover the exterior with hand applied or sprayed on concrete.
This is also difficult and the results depend on the skill of the applicator.
With a concrete covered dome, cracks can develop in unpredictable locations.

What is solution? The solution comes from answering another question.
How do you normally build a home? Answer: You cut the boards to fit.
If all the struts are cut-to-fit and joined at the nodes
by stitching them together with non-splitting Fas-Tap screws
and also by criss-crossing every node with tensioned stainless steel straps,
the entire dome building will be strong and have no expansion contraction problems.
Why? Answer: Wood (lumber) does not change in length due to humidity or temperature changes, only in width.
There is no overall expansion contraction.
Basically, by attaching composite cement exterior panels and waterproofing between the panels with rubbery stuff,
you are making a system of controlled expansion joints where the movement at each joint is very, very small.
So small that the drywall joints (seams) on the interior do not crack.
Such a building can be reliably weathersealed using proven waterproofing products and procedures.

I have found it difficult for many reasons to use metal studs for making dome home kits.
Metal stud struts cannot be compound cut on the ends.
This situation does not allow for alignment as the dome is assembled.
And the ends of the struts do not support compressional loading like wood struts do.
Metal struts also provide a conduction path for heat and cold. This is not good.
And, there is the expansion-contraction (due to temperature variations) problem with metal.
And, personally I like handling and looking at wood. Each piece of lumber is natural and unique.
I am totally in favor of using struts made of wood (lumber) for these and other reasons.

Ventilation assists with keeping wood structurally sound and
ventilation also can help with making a building more energy efficient.
The exterior Hardipanel composite can be spaced away from the sheathing
to allow for ventilation under the siding and roofing.
This ventilates heat away in the summer and provides a buffer zone in the winter.
Spacing the siding and roofing away from the surface of the building
also allows moisture to have an evaporation path.
Cor-a-Vent strips along the lower perimeter of the siding
create a large area ventilation intake that also keeps the bugs out.
Strips of mostly scrap plywood are attached over the plywood sheathing
to create a ventilation space under the entire exterior surface.
An exhaust vent is installed near or at the top of the dome building.
Having the ventilation space outside the building frame
allows you to insulate within the shell cavity with any type of insulation.
Spray in foam insulation works best as it fills every nook and cranny.

With economy foremost in mind we suggest considering building dome homes using Basic 2x4 construction.
At one time it was necessary to use 2x6 and larger framing members (struts) to frame a dome roof truss.
The EconOdome frame, however, has shorter and thus stronger struts.
Sometimes larger framing members were used to build domes and other home shapes
so that more insulation could be installed in the walls and roofs.
Due to advances in insulation technology,
you can have a "well insulated" home using 2x4 exterior frame construction.
The exterior walls and roof do not need to be thicker if you install radiant barrier
or spray-in foam insulation in conjunction with rigid foam board installed
just outside the building frame and under the protective composite cement exterior cladding.

Also, you may not be fully aware that plywood is nailed on the entire exterior
of nearly all homes in order to make the building rigid and stable.
Plywood or OSB sheeting can be very useful to form a ventilation space under the siding and roofing.
However, because an EconOdome building frame is formed by securing triangles at their endpoints.
--plywood to brace the EconOdome building frame--is not necessary! The triangles form interlocking arches,
more triangles are integrated into the framing of the riser walls,
and criss-crossed metal straps and wires hold the building secure in high winds, deep snows, and earthquakes.
We advocate installing durable cement composite cladding on the exterior over one inch of rigid insulation board.
If you wish to make your exterior shell any thicker, for whatever reason, you can install thicker composite cement,
or, multiple layers of composite cement. You see, the EconOdome exterior is very similar to an egg shell,
only due to the stout, integrated, and, triangulated framing, plus, the metal connectors,
the dome building cannot crack, it is strong and resiliant in the most severe of natural disasters.

The EconOdome building frame is comprised of triangles formed with precision cut lumber,
and, held secure with metal screws, straps, and wires.
The EconOdome building is also clad on the exterior with composite cement sheeting.
Due to this unique combination of materials and construction methods,
the EconOdome building may be reliably sealed using a sealing technique called the "saturated seal".
This proven method of sealing basically involves brushing and elastomeric sealer
under and over stretchy polyester cloth seam tape that is applied over all seams and nail/screw penetrations.
This method converts all seams (where panel edges meet) to virtually invisible sealed expansion joints.
The only possible location for a leak on an elastomeric covered composite cement surface
would be via the seams or nail/screw penetrations.
If these locations are bridged with elastomeric saturated and stretchy polyester cloth tape,
then the building will be waterproof when the elastomeric dries/cures and forms a tough exterior skin.
Waterbase, non-toxic elastomerics bond tenaciously with the porus surface of composite cement.
The surface of the building can be covered and sealed while standing on the sturdy EconOdome framework.
You will be making an expanding umbrella that will keep your building materials dry during construction.
Recoating with paint rollers on poles, about once every ten years, is a weekend project for two people.
No prep work is required. Shingles do not need to be torn off and go to a landfill.

Normally, it is difficult to build a floor for a building because building codes often require
a perimeter concrete footing to extend below the frostline in order to prevent the building
from moving when the ground freezes. However, there is a better way to construct a floor and foundation
for a lightweight and balanced dome, without using a massive perimeter concrete footing.
In some areas of the USA a family can build a highly energy efficient and storm safer
38.5' diameter 2,000 square foot dome home with a radiantly heated concrete floor
using just 7 cubic yards of concrete (our mesa base floor and foundation).
In other areas building codes require that all buildings have a conventional foundation
using 30 cubic yards of concrete that is mostly used under the perimeter of the building.
And such a conventional monolithic foundation is very energy inefficient due to perimeter heat loss.
As concrete costs $100 per cubic yard, this is a big difference.
And using 4 times as much concrete costs at least 4 times as much in labor.
Building costs are high for many reasons. Some costs we can control.
If cost is a major concern, then you may want to consider building
with our more economical 2x4 Basic EconOdome frame kit.
And you may want to consider installing a skylight near the top of the dome instead of having a cupola.
Every time you make a choice it is very possible that you are adding to the cost of your home.
If we help you to build a dome home, it is going to be very elegant,
even if you choose to always make the most economical choice.
We call our product the EconOdome kit---because it can be---not because it will be.
I just want to make sure you are aware of cost when you make choices.
If certain things are worth the additional cost to you,
then by all means we want you to have what you want.
After all is said and done
it will be your home
for a long time to come.
You can build a substantial concrete floor above a retained river rock "mesa base".
It is best if the mesa base is about 8 inches high and extends about 3 feet outside of the dome perimeter.
The Backyard Dome is 24 feet in diameter with a 12 foot radius.
This means the round and level pile of gravel could be about 30 feet across with a 15 foot radius.
Rock can be easily "chuted" into place, if it is delivered by a "redi-mix" truck.
To keep weeds and grass from growing up thru the gravel, lay landscape fabric
on the ground prior to putting the gravel in place if this is possible.